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Cultural Appropriation in Fashion and Entertainment

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Overview

Is it ever acceptable to “borrow” culturally inspired ideas? Who has ownership over intangible culture? What role does power inequality play? These questions are often at the center of heated public debates around cultural appropriation, with new controversies breaking seemingly every day.
Cultural Appropriation in Fashion and Entertainment offers a sociological perspective on the appropriation of race, ethnicity, class, sexuality, and religion embedded in clothing, textiles, jewelry, accessories, hairstyles and tattoos, as well as in entertainment, such as K-pop, Bhangra, and hip-hop.

By providing a range of global perspectives on the adoption, adaptation, and application of both tangible and intangible cultural objects, Kawamura and de Jong help move the conversation beyond simply criticizing designers and creators to encourage nuanced discussion and raise awareness of diverse cultures in the creative industries.

Unpicks the knotty problem of cultural appropriation in fashion and entertainment, using sociological analysis to explore international examples and engage with the passionate debates that surround them as well as the implications for designers, artists and consumers.

40 images illustrate key examples and each chapter opens with learning objectives and ends with 4-5 examples to promote discussion, including a Pretty Little Things Collection inspired by a traditional Chinese qipao and Yumeyakata, a Japanese retailer, who launched a kimono with matching hijab for Muslim women.
Takes a global approach to cultural appropriation, with international case studies selected to open up discussion on the varying values, norms, traditions, and beliefs of disparate cultures.
Explores the tensions between globalization, which makes cultural artifacts available across geographical boundaries, and the rise in territorialism which delineates between insiders and outsiders dictating who can or cannot adopt certain culturally specific ideas or practices.

Preface

1. Introduction – Culture
Culture in Classical Social Theory
Schools of Thought: Value-laden and Value-neutral Culture
Conceptual Tools for Cultural Analysis
Outline of the Book
Conclusion
Suggested Further Reading

2. Academic Studies on Cultural Appropriation
Definitions, Processes, and Types
Logos, Mascots, and Nicknames
Gastronomy and Cuisine
Literary Works
Adornment
Conclusion
Suggested Discussion Examples

3. Fashion
In Pursuit of Exoticism and Novelty
Biological, Cultural, and Sartorial Hierarchies
Conceptual Typologies
The Strength of Weak Virtual Ties
Conclusion
Suggested Discussion Examples
Suggested Further Reading

4. Entertainment
What is Sociological about Entertainment?
The Commodification of Culture and the Other
Conditions of Cultural Appropriation
The Production of Culture in Social Media Age
Cultural Hybridization and Cultural Appropriation
Conclusion
Suggested Discussion Examples

5. Ambivalence and Paradox: Derritorialization and Reterritorialization in the Globalized World
Cross-cultural Encounters in a Historical Context
Globalization and Deterritorialization
Immigration and Cultural Globalization through Mediascapes
Culture as Epistemological Relativism: Coexisting with Harmonious Differences
Ambivalence in Fashion Globalization
Cultural Authentication Process: Cultural Integration and Hybridization
Conclusion
Suggested Further Reading

Conclusion

This is a timely book, given that discussions of what is and is not cultural appropriation are exploding within the academy, museums, fashion design, and social media. Those unfamiliar with the concept will find this to be a fine introduction to the topic, and those well-acquainted with the subject will appreciate the literature review. ... From the beginner to the academic expert (and everyone in between), there is much to learn and appreciate in this thorough recounting of the debates over cultural appropriation.

This is a timely examination of the problems inherent in the way that dominant cultures have taken inspiration from minority groups in ways that have been exploitative. This book makes an important contribution to the wider, political call for an urgent reappraisal of attitudes and inequalities that have had a devastating effect on many communities.

YUNIYA KAWAMURA is Professor of Sociology at the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, USA. She is the author of four other Bloomsbury publications: Fashioning Japanese Subcultures (2012), Sneakers (2016), Fashion-ology (2004, 2018), and Doing Research in Fashion and Dress (2011, 2020).

Jung-Whan Marc de Jong is Associate Professor of Sociology at Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, USA.

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    $27.85