Ebook
Recently, while moving into a new house, Elizabeth Gilbert
unpacked some boxes of family books that had been sitting in her
mother’s attic for decades. Among the old, dusty hardcovers was a
book called At Home on the Range (or, How To Make Friends with
Your Stove) by Gilbert’s great-grandmother, Margaret Yardley
Potter. Having only been peripherally aware of the volume, Gilbert
dug in with some curiosity, and soon found that she had stumbled
upon a book far ahead of its time. In her workaday cookbook, Potter
espoused the importance of farmer’s markets and ethnic food
(Italian, Jewish, and German), derided preservatives and culinary
shortcuts, and generally celebrated a devotion to seeking out new
epicurean adventures. Potter takes car trips out to Pennsylvania
Dutch country to eat pickled pork products, and during World War II
she cajoles local poultry farmers into saving buckets of coxcombs
for her so she can try to cook them in the French manner. She takes
trips to the eastern shore of Maryland, where she learns to catch
and prepare eels so delicious, she says, they must be “devoured in
a silence almost devout.” Part scholar—she includes a great recipe
from 1848 for boiled sheep head—and part crusader for a more open
food conversation than currently existed, it’s not hard to see from
where Elizabeth Gilbert inherited both her love of food, and her
warm, infectious prose.
Featuring a comprehensive and moving introduction from Potter’s
great-granddaughter, Elizabeth Gilbert, At Home on the
Range is an eminently usable and humorous cookbook. But it’s
also more than that: it’s an heirloom, an into-the-wee-hours dinner
with relatives and ancestors, a perfect gift for anybody with a
stove or a mother.